Day 77, April 11, Valley Forge

Pennsylvania is gorgeous; green, verdant, and bucolic, at least in the rolling countryside between Gettysburg and Valley Forge. We’re camped not far from Philadelphia in a small rural township on the banks of Brandywine Creek. The weather proved perfect today, so we discovered Valley Forge by pedaling along a 10-mile bike path through the national historical park. The accompanying audio tour took us along redoubts (earthen embankment fortifications) which still exist almost 250 years later, an artillery park full of canons, monuments galore, and the 1777-78 winter quarters of George Washington and his newly formed and severely floundering Continental Army. 

After suffering several defeats two years after the first shots of The Revolution were fired at Concord and Lexington, and facing starvation, disease, and a fierce winter, Washington moved his 12,000 army with 400 women and children in tow into the Village of Valley Forge (the forge having been burned by the Brits) to sit out the winter. A ragtag group of diverse men from all of the colonies, lacking discipline, money, support, food, and weaponry, The Army was on the brink of failure. Washington told Congress the army would surely either "starve, dissolve, or disperse". These 12,400 people arrived at Valley Forge in mid December and within a month had constructed 1000 huts for shelter from the wicked winter winds and snow. 

Over the next six months, Washington regrouped, convinced Congress to send more money, figured a way to prevent starvation for his masses, and hired a military leader, a Prussian by the name of von Steuben who spoke no English, to transform this disorderly group into a disciplined army finally ready for battle against the British.  Their six-month stay at Valley Forge was the beginning of not only the US Army, the world's greatest troops ever amassed, but was also the beginning of the end of British rule.  Oh, and Martha Washington joined her husband out here in Valley Forge for some months, which I'm sure made George smile. 

Three amazing things:  1- George Washington is another man surely predestined by God for the stupendous role he played in our nation's history. You’ve known that he was pretty much offered the position of King of America if he wanted the role, but he humbly and wisely refused because he desired freedom more than fame…OUR freedom. But did you know that he declined to sleep indoors that first month in Valley Forge while the huts were being constructed? He refused to sleep in any better situation than his men must. That takes meekness and true selflessness.  2- To pedal across the parade grounds of and past crude huts built for the Revolutionary War is a fairly humbling and astounding way to spend a day.  3- The Washington Memorial Chapel, not an official part of the historical park but just across the street from it, was built in 1903 to honor the early patriots who sacrificed so much for our country. It is a stunning piece of architecture, a gorgeous tribute with its red- and blue-stained glass windows, carved wooden statues of soldiers (some kneeling in prayer), an intricately sculpted white oak choir, and even a small statue of a seated Washington. This beguiling reverent chapel is an active Episcopalian house of worship, and I hope to make it to a choir recital here on Wednesday evening.

Good deeds: We stopped for a sugar fix at the church baked-goods store and I couldn’t help but make a generous contribution to their restoration fund.