Days 133 & 134, June 9 & 10, The Apostle Islands National Lakeshore

From the moment I saw the picture of a kayaker in a sea cave along Lake Superior’s southern shore in The Apostle Islands National Lakeshore in Wisconsin, I knew I must go, I knew I must be that kayaker. Well, we made it happen. The weather agreed, the bipolar lake cooperated, the stars aligned, and we had ourselves one marvelous overnight paddle and camp.

Spoiler alert: The picture didn’t tell the entire story; it was way more enthralling than billed.

Base camp for Bambi was on the shore of the lake, a tiny 5-star campground except for the plethora of mosquitos. When I sent urine samples from my elderly patients to the lab for evaluation, the report back often counted bacteria in the thousands or tens of thousands. If the bacterial count was astronomical, the report simply read,”TNTC,” nomenclature for Too Numerous To Count. Such was the number of mosquitoes at camp, at least that number in our trailer alone. When slapped, they’d leave huge pools of my own blood viciously sucked from me. But Deet saved the day as did our electric bug swatter.

A choppy windy paddle across open water on a moody lake brought us to pristine Sand Island, one of 22 islands dotting the shore on the southern reaches of Lake Superior and which comprise The Apostle Islands.  A mural in the visitor center shows well over 100 wrecks on the bottom of the lake from squalls which come suddenly out of nowhere, so it was with a healthy respect for this water that we paddled. Had the weather shown any clouds ahead, we would not have gone. But the weather was perfect: calm, sunny, warm.

I agree with one blogger I read that the best sea caves are to be found on Sand Island. Because they take some trouble to get to, we had the sea caves to ourselves. They are beautifully eroded and sculpted red sandstone caves, dripping with water from springs above and totally magical. As they were on the leeward side of the island, the water was almost like glass, the only sounds the plunging made by water splashing into deep recesses at the back of the caves. We wandered in and through the caves for a little more than an hour before peeling ourselves away. Was tremendously delightful, and Kasper laughed at my school-girl giggling. Made us both immensely happy. These unique caves may be the most enchanting place we’ve yet seen this year. In the winter, the lake freezes and long icicles hang from the roof of the caves, but I much prefer the warmth of summer to explore them. 

We picnicked at Sand Island Lighthouse and walked up and down the 1.5 mile island boardwalk through bogs and boreal forest past 100 yr-old moldering homesteads to discover that, barring a group of 5 young volunteers on the far end of the island, we had the place to ourselves.

Our campsite sat high on a ledge over glassy Justice Bay just above the sea caves with loons and ducks and the lapping of gentle waves the only sounds. A lovely campfire and a couple of hours of mellow civil twilight was topped only by the most comfortable sleep known to man in our hammocks. The day was arguably the best experience we’ve enjoyed on this trip. The sun stays up late this far north with the sky still light past 10pm, and it had fully cleared the horizon again by 5:15am, and what bliss we enjoyed that entire sun-drenched day.

Back on the water in the morning, we played and explored the sea caves once more before making our return trip back to base camp where we again set off in a different direction, this time to explore another area of caves on the mainland. But the parking lot was full with kayaking tour groups crowding the sea caves, so we opted instead for an afternoon nap and a return in the evening when the crowds were gone and we had the sea caves to ourselves. This second set of caves, named Meyers Caves, proved much larger and impressive to view but also much less enjoyable to kayak. They sit on the windward side of the mainland, so the wind churched up a choppy voyage with many unpleasant waves. Plus, these caves were not as deep with no dark caves to explore. But we enjoyed the evening paddle, again all to ourselves, and our hot showers at the end of a perfect kayak/camping adventure.

Lake Superior, when she is calm and mild, proved one of our most cherished excursions. We’ll see if Isle Royale, on the northern end of the lake, can top The Apostle Islands.

Three amazing things: Swallow Point Sea Caves on Sand Island, Lake Superior in all her awe-full splendor, and the number of vicious mosquitos one can encounter and yet survive.

 Good deeds: Besides letting the impatient guy behind me in the checkout line at Walmart move ahead in front of me, I also put $10 of quarters into the change slot at the laundromat. I’ve done this before, however, this time I waited around to see who retrieved the dough, and the response was worth the wait.